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When assembling a list of London’s top eateries, one might anticipate well-known Michelin-starred names. Yet, tucked prominently among these culinary titans is a unpretentious salonu situated in a far-flung part of north London.

A Shocking Recognition

This compact Turkish spot, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the fourth finest restaurant in the city by a prominent gastronomic guide. The honour has left the proprietors utterly surprised.

“I’m utterly shocked,” remarks the family member, pointing to his parents’ relentless work that culminated in their humble place earning such a lofty ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

A Character of Modesty

This compact space, which started as a basic cafe before its conversion into a sought-after destination, has kept much of its earlier charm. It fits just over 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking display, the interior remains mostly unchanged. “It is a small and stocky spot,” comments the owner.

The Namesake Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it’s all about the food, and this establishment certainly succeeds. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a succulent quality.

The meat is then tossed into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are added in bit by bit. As the savoury mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to take in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is folded tightly inside.

The wrap is usually eaten with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a powerful burst of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The leading food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the eatery’s künefe proves a treat. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a deeper, toastier and less sickly flavour.

Surpassing the Titans

Notably, this unassuming restaurant has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the top of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant satisfied for less than £25, equivalent tasting menus at high-end establishments can cost significantly more than that amount.

A Philosophy of Hospitality

It is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is located well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I do not believe in that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is most important is friendliness, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This philosophy is echoed by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he was in a position of power, he would “insist to make every chef in London come to this spot as a final lesson, to show them the dangers of overcomplication, and to show what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Journey of Perseverance

In contrast to many chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food didn’t apprentice at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I am really pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

A lot of restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its success is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum would be very tired. She would source produce in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a social life but her friends would support her to support her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. Each of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

A Achievement for the Community

This restaurant’s success is set to echo beyond its own doors. “In my opinion many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the broader significance of this gastronomic triumph.